ST HELIER JERSEY
Wednesday 2nd October: Douarnenez - Loctudy
“As a rule the Raz should always be taken at slack water to ensure the least uncomfortable conditions. Precise timing is vital.”
October 2019: DOUARNENEZ - loctudy
Wednesday 2nd October: Douarnenez - Loctudy
78NM 20.3hrs
It was beginning to feel a little claustrophobic in Douarnenez. We had been back on board for almost two weeks and either the weather, the tide or both had been completely against us. Dave H had come across for a visit and the weather didn’t help that either; needless to say we drank a lot, I was sick out of the tiny forward hatch and there was an accident involving flip flops, wet stone steps and a stack of pizza.
Our first attempt to leave didn’t go exactly to plan. We had our timings right, approached the lock and were hailed on the radio. Turn around and the lock keeper explained that due to the weather they were unable to open the gate.
The second attempt went to plan, everything was in our favour; I had done my usual trick of reading too much about the next, “treacherous” piece of water the notorious ‘Raz de Sein’.
The plan was to hit the ‘Raz’ at slack (19:30hrs) and carry on sailing through the night. We knew could stop at Saint Evette for the night but the wind would be against us in the morning. Just off Jaune du Raz we tried our first ‘hove to’ for an hour, waiting for slack; having never carried out the procedure I was amazed at how easy she settled and after we lashed the tiller, no further intervention was required.
We were off Point du Raz at exactly 19:30hrs, the sun was setting and there was nothing else to say about it, smooth sailing. At this point El was taken down with Mal de Mer and that was nearly her done for the night. This appears to be a pattern where she is sick for the first ‘proper’ sail of the season and fine thereafter, it’s seems mad that our first proper sail of the season was in October!
I however was thrilled to be on watch for the night. We were followed down the coast by a Hallberg-Rassey which was reassuring to know we weren’t alone to have made that particular passage plan. Even the ‘ghost dolphins’ were entertaining; anyone who’s been sailing at night around dolphins will know what we mean.
The wind continued to build through the night, and with two reefs in both main and Genoa we still had the toerail under for most of it. Going below we were amazed to hear the wind howling in the rigging- that was a first. That’s the noise we usually hear in a marina or anchorage and think ‘glad we’re not out in that’… Due to our speed we were way ahead of our projected timings and now I had to try and slow her down. Having decided at the start that we would not enter Loctudy at night, especially with the south westerly wind, this proved to be a tiring exercise. I learned a lot that night and one thing that sticks in my mind is to make sure the passage is long enough and away from the coast if you want to go through the night. Tacking (wide) was not much fun, but did make me confident to know it was possible on my own in the dark.
On the final approach, still dark, tired but with a sense of achievement we were about to make the final tack to lead us into Locktudy when the AIS targets started appearing leaving the harbour. One after another until they came into view were fishing boats, lots of them and half without AIS, so more than I expected. To my horror they were laying nets, in all directions, with one boat completely on our bearing for the port. El came back and we started the engine to bear away, full throttle. Arriving in Locktudy I was shattered with a new sense of sailing and myself. Great fun!
Tuesday 8th August: Morgat - Douarnenez
AUGUST 2019: MORGAT - DOUARNENEZ
Tuesday 8th August: Morgat - Douarnenez
11NM 2.6hrs
There was a buzz around the visitors pontoon at Morgat. People were discussing the latest forecast; it didn’t look great but we were heading in the right direction to be on the leeward side of it in Douarnenez. I don’t know what constitutes a “gale” but it was going to be windy.
We left Thursday morning, a bit premature but at least we could work things out when we got there. At least we waited for the sun to come up before we started the engine. It was early, the wind was on the nose and all I wanted to do was drink coffee, so we motored the uneventful 10NM across the bay. Come on, we’re not proper sailors.
The first visitors pontoon you come to was full, and full of familiar looking boats, but not to worry- we were heading up the lock. A bit soon for the opening times, we dropped the hook outside the lock and drank more coffee. I eventually plucked up the courage to VHF the marina on channel 09…. we called, waited, called again, waited.
Eventually we got through to a very nice marina chap who asked how long we wanted to stay, I replied with “5 weeks”. His response was quite memorable- “5 weeeeks?!” said a bit like a pig’s squeal. On arrival he helped us with our lines, gave us the shower key and said to sort the bureaucracy tomorrow. We didn’t see him again, in the whole seven weeks we were there! We had another English couple’s shower key as they didn’t see him either…
Tuesday 6th August: Camaret - Morgat
AUGUST 2019: Camaret - MORGAT
Tuesday 6th August: Camaret - Morgat
20.3NM 4.5hrs
Wanting to catch a favourable tide through the Chanel du Toulinguet, meant leaving at 11:00hrs. I wish all tidal gates were so accommodating, although here they’re probably not running at all from 12:00 - 14:00hrs.
The wind was as forecast and there was some sun between the clouds. We sailed off the anchor leaving Camaret, it’s always a great feeling. (We do have the engine running / in neutral for the Windless and in case we mess it up.) Managing to get on all points of sail, El did a wonderful job as always on the helm- from which I seem to have been retired. Especially since the crash.
We came well outside the rocks off Pen-hir. Though boats appeared to be passing between them and it was in the pilot book, we still chickened out.
Morgat, it was pleasant, pretty, seemed to have all the right things going for it but it didn’t do a lot for us. This seems to be in contradiction to others we’ve talked to and sure- we get the appeal of a big beach and seaside-town attractions, but we didn't fancy a kayak or expensive 10 minute cave tour…
Friday 2nd August: Moulin Blanc Marina, Brest - Camaret sur mer
AUGUST 2019: bresT - Camaret
Friday 2nd August: Moulin Blanc Marina, Brest - Camaret sur mer
10.8NM 2hrs
We really had been in Brest far too long, I feel like I know it well. It was time to leave and a great feeling to be exiting La rade de Brest and heading to new places. First on the list was Camaret and I knew exactly what we should do when we get there - anchor. Anchor for a few days and start to feel like we were on holiday! It worked, we spent 4 nights at anchor in the bay and enjoyed every minute. Even if Ellie thought it was too cold for a swim.
We left Moulin Blanc marina, Brest with a rising mist at approximately 9am to have a favourable tide through the rade. The sun was shining and the wind was no where to be seen, so we motored for two hours on a millpond.
On ariving at the anchorage there was only one other boat, but things started to fill up later that day with predominantly British boats.
We took a stroll over the headland to see the next section of coast, the Toulinguet rocks and La pointe de Pen-Hir, both headlands we would round next with lots of pointy things sticking out of the water.
SANITY - At YUCCA VOILES, Brest
SEPTMEMBER 2019: bresT - (COMMISSIONING)
Friday 27th September: Brest
It’s been quite the hiatus; in Brest last year we decided that we’d get married in June. This coupled with the S&S association AGM in Late June meant leaving Sanity alone an additional 3 months in foreign waters, a total of 9 months!
Although enthused to be back in Brest and reunited there was some apprehension of her condition from such a long period. My imagination was running away with visions of sole boards floating around in the bilge, fried batteries and halyards swinging in the wind. The feelings evaporated as soon as the wash boards were removed and the hatch slid open. There was the distinct blast of boat smell, the bilge had approximately 15mm of green pond water and following that it all remained quite uneventful, everything was surprisingly as we left her.
Commissioning started with some confusion, chins were rubbed ‘how do we do this again?’ checks were made, batteries, engine, rigging etc. So with the hoist arranged we were back in the water within the week.
A big thank you to Gildas and his team from YUCCA VOILES, they were brilliant and I would highly recommend them if you’re looking for a place to winter in Brest.
From the hoist it was a short hop around the harbour to the allocated berth for the evening. On approach the wind was pushing us on to the pontoon, and I was coming in ‘hot’. Not the best combination, going for the ubiquitous hard in reverse to recover the situation, the little Yanmar burst into life and subsequently died. We crashed into the pontoon, and now there’s the 50mm chunk missing from the stem, sorry bateaux. Ego blamed the engine, but I’m sure the same eventuality would’ve happened, with just a smaller chunk.
A short investigation into the problem, revealed a distinct lack of fuel reaching the filter. This held us up a further 2 days while we drained, cleaned and re-dosed the fuel tank of ‘Diesel bug’ - not the funnest way to start the vacation. But we were back.
2018
september 2018: brest - roscanvel - KERziou - brest
Thursday 10th - 14th September: Brest - Roscanvel - Kerziou - Brest
Some NM & Some hrs.
I feel guilty and a little ashamed that this post didn’t go up sooner because we had a fantastic time meeting up with Matt and Robyn after they sailed from The Scilly Iles to Brest. Yes, proper sailors. Even the dog.
We had a great few days being in a flotilla- anchoring one night, everyone in one dinghy to forage for refreshment, and “racing” across the bay to the next anchorage. The kind of racing that you never call a race until you win by a good margin!
Kerziou was another lovely anchorage and the site of a, umm, mishap between Dan’s ankle and an oyster shell. Nevertheless, Matt and Robyn ensured us afterwards that up river was truly splendid with a lovely eatery at the end. I’m sure it wasn't as nice as the Hospital D'instruction Des Armées though.
Cue some more rest as a car loaded with supplies turned up with El’s folks, as Dan was made to push the loaded trolley down the pontoon before owning up to just coming from hospital. One inland relaxed day, one sailing relaxed afternoon, before abandoning ship again and catching a lift back to Pembrokeshire. 4 weeks later, back again to haul out.
september 2018: bresT - KERziou - rostellec - roscanvel - brest
Thursday 6th - 8th September: Brest - Kerziou - Rostellec - Rostellec - Roscanvel - Brest
6NM 1.5hrs
With Dave on board, provisioned with some food and (mainly) drink we set off for a few nights at anchor. The weather was in our favour with light winds and some sunshine. It was a blast to have nowhere to be for a few days - lots of catching up and discovering the JRE podcast. Good times.
The first night we anchored off Kerziou, reminding me of the Cleddau. Staying up late, with a quick swim in the morning before heading off to Rostellec.
Rostellec, for us was a pleasant accident. I had happened upon it whilst perusing google maps for anchorages; the satellite view showed some larger boats on the beach, google images showed what looked like a fishing boat graveyard. Definitely a highlight.
With not enough water beneath us that evening to anchor off Rostellec, we moved to Roscanvel for the night.
Tuesday 4th September: Le Trez Hir - Brest
september 2018: Le trez hir - brest
Tuesday 4th September: Le Trez Hir - Brest
11NM 3hrs
We sailed for a while, putting some small tacks in and realised that if we went any slower we’d be punching the tide going through channel, or more likely going backwards. So the engine went on, and we motored the final few miles into Chateau Marina, Brest. Brest is our final destination for the winter, although we’re hoping to use the marina as a base and explore the bay a little first.
Arriving on the 4th we were just in time for the imminent Royal visit, Monsieur ‘Henry (Dave) on the 5th. We didn’t go far that day, which explains why all the photographs we have are within 15 feet of the boat.
Sunday 2nd September: île d'Ouessant - Le Trez Hir
september 2018: île d'Ouessant - Le trez hir
Sunday 2nd September: île d'Ouessant - Le Trez Hir
27NM 6.5hrs
After all the weather, which was mostly mist and rain, departing Ouessant the wind had dropped to nothing and the sun came out. We motored past Jument lighthouse in millpond conditions. This was a highlight of the trip, having seen the famous photograph of the lighthouse many times. After an hour the realisation set in that there was no wind coming and we would have to motor the whole day into Le Trez hir.
We dropped anchor in 12m of water; a little deeper than I would have liked but we were free of all the moorings. We explored the town the following day and, as it was Sunday, found everything closed... not even a bar. The wind picked up in the afternoon from the East, putting us on a lee shore. We planned to move over to the East side of the bay, but being complacent we extended the scope with some rope rode instead. This only delays the inevitable, me wondering about the holding. Why didn’t we just move to east side.
Friday 31st August: L’Aber-Wrac’h - île d'Ouessant
“The far west of Brittany tends to be regarded as a remote and precarious place with a reputation for powerful tidal streams, overfalls, swell and fog. Nevertheless at neap tides in clear settled weather with light winds an opportunity to visit should not be missed.”
August 2018: L’Aber-Wrac’h - île d'Ouessant
Friday 31st August: L’Aber-Wrac’h - île d'Ouessant
34NM 6.0hrs
I’d been feeling pretty awful for the whole day in Aber Wrac’h. Anxiety had a hold of me and the planned passage to Ouessant was the cause. El was keen to visit, as was I, but all the reading, pilot books, weather forecast and tidal streams had given me the fear. Hopefully the quote to the left might provide some context.
To summarise we would need: 1. Neaps - not likely we were 3 days off springs. 2. Clear settled weather - I had to google settled weather and didn’t get a real answer, but it had been misty and raining for days. 3. Light winds - It was forecast to be gusting 21 - 22kts, though I appreciate to some that is light. Things weren’t adding up, but then when would they? We were more likely to have a super blue blood moon. I tried another pilot book by uncle Tom for some sense but things didn’t improve.
“Ushant can still be a challenge, and it is best visited in fair weather with as little swell running in from the ocean as you are able to arrange. Spring tides to be avoided if you have the option. All this makes it sound well worth avoiding....”
So we set off and almost instantly the anxiety subsided. This seems to be the norm, maybe it’s more apprehension than anxiety. We had the best sail of the trip and were absolutely tramping along, Sanity had the bit between her teeth. For the last Fifteen or so miles she was on a clean beam reach, tidal stream favourable, one reef in the main and we were regularly in the 10 knots range. Navionics recording a maximum if 12.2 knots!
Ouessant reminded us a lot of St Davids, similar in landscape and architecture. We explored part of the island on the next day in full foul weather gear receiving some strange looks from the tourists. Until it started raining.
And a final comment, thank you for the visitors mooring people of Ouessant - but honestly they’re the Devil’s work. No matter what you do the mooring buoy will always find a point in the night to smash into the bow, repeatedly. Can’t we just anchor, in peace…
Wednesday 29th August: Mogueriec - L’Aber-Wrac’h
August 2018: Mogueriec - L’Aber-Wrac’h
Wednesday 29th August: Mogueriec - L’Aber-Wrac’h
34NM 6.5hrs
A little blurry eyed after a night rolling at anchor on the surf break, we set off with a favourable tide and a not-so-favourable North West wind. We attempted one long tack out of Mogueriec to make L’Aber-Wrac’h in one starboard tack. Yeah, that didn’t work, as the wind shifted and almost fell to nothing after the third tack. We motored most of the way picking up some wind and sailing the final miles after the North cardinal ‘Aman ar Ross’. We were greeted by some our first dolphins- which gave us some brief entertainment, totally abandoning the helm to take photos!
L’Aber-Wrac’h has just enough for a one or two night stop, and must be a great destination after crossing the channel. It feels slightly remote, with a few restaurants, cafes, a chandlery, and a bar at the end of the visitor pontoon.
Tuesday 28th August: Carantec - Mogueriec
August 2018: Carantec - Mogueriec
Tuesday 28th August: Carantec - Mogueriec
14NM 3hrs
It was a spring tide, the weather was grey, I was uninspired with no plan to anchor or explore île de Batz, and we had places to be for the 9th September. It’s a strange feeling; a time scale, a window, sailing for purpose, to be doing it just to be somewhere else - I understand that it’s the norm, but it was probably the first time for us.
The passage was uneventful, with minor peril as we motored between île de Batz and Roscoff. Low water and spring tides, we sounded through without issue (what I mean is that El sounded through without issue).
Mogueriec appeared an unconventional destination and on arrival the expression on the local fishermen seemed to confirm this. I liked it for that. The pilot had little to say, only that it offered some protection, sandy bottom and it also seemed a good starting point for L’Aber-Wrac’h. On arrival it was calm and with the anchor down it seemed peaceful. Well, until the swell starting wrapping around the headland. With the gently shelving beach it kicked up quite steep. It was a relatively long period swell, the closest I could describe it would be to sitting on a board out back, a few more strokes and you’d be standing up.
Monday 27th August: Morlaix - Carantec
August 2018: MORLAIX - CARANTEC
Monday 27th August: Morlaix - Carantec
6.5NM 1.5hrs
We had a long weekend in Morlaix, then added an extra day after the marina man said, “You are leaving tomorrow? Into the storm?”.. It’s always difficult finding motivation after work to set sail immediately, especially as the weather was grey, misty and generally uninspiring. When we had previously returned to the boat after a month sat in a marina, a small fine sea grass was starting to form on the coppercoat anti-fouling. I’d removed large quantities with wetsuit and brush whilst in the middle of the trip at Ile de drama and I feared when returning to Morlaix that Sanity would have the hydrodynamics of a small pacific island. But this was not the case; she was spotless, with no sea grass, no slime - a smooth belly. I wonder if it’s the brackish water in the lock maybe? The Mullet there seemed undeterred anyway.
On departure we used the same passage only in reverse, leaving the lock and up the river to Carantec, anchoring amongst the oyster beds. It’s weird- you’re lazy before you leave, but as soon as you’re out the enthusiasm returns.
Thursday 19th July: Perros Guirec - Morlaix
JULY 2018: perros guirec - MORLAIX
Thursday 19th July: Perros Guirec - Morlaix
20NM 5hrs
We received more light conditions and repeated much of the same, sail, engine, sails and engine - but it's hard to complain when the weather's been fantastic.
Completely out of sync with the tide, the anchor went down in the river for the night amongst the Oyster beds. South East of Carantec it's a designated anchorage on the chart - the withies and buoys around us appeared to confirm this, but part of me expected a fouled anchor in the morning.
The 6 NM (ish) stretch up the river is both beautiful and nerve-wracking - for me anyway. El thinks she should cover the depth sounder display for such situations. Its narrow, shallow and the buoyage isn't always obvious but then you get distracted by the scenery, and forget about the imminent peril for for 30 seconds.
The lock into Morlaix was painless - the lock keeper welcoming, he's also everyone - lock keeper, marina office manager, yard manager and rarely seen.
The town seems to have a lot going for it - I'm sure I'll find out in a few weeks, when El can tell me all about it. She's staying on board for 4 weeks!
Wednesday 18th July: Tréguier - Perros Guirec
JULY 2018: Tréguier - perros guirec
Wednesday 18th July: Tréguier - Perros Guirec
20NM 5hrs
Another painfully slow sail. Battling with the autopilot and its destructive personality. Helm / pilot / engine on / engine off / helm / pilot. And eventually sails, engine and pilot, achieving 6 - 7 knots over the ground. Then, we picked up some weed; no significant vibration just a drop in engine RPM and SOG. This was confirmed with the GoPro on our trusty boat hook - a job for later.
We were not ready for another marina and had no plans to visit Perros Guirec, just an anchorage before heading off to Morlaix. We arrived south of Ile Tome and tucked in behind Point-du-Chateaux, anchoring in 7m of water. The Wet suit was donned and propeller un-fouled (thanks for the wetsuit Matt). We had a beautiful evening, I took some (more) sunset photos.. that’s getting out of hand - it did look amazing though, especially after a few beers.
Friday 13th July: Île-de-Bréhat - Tréguier
JULY 2018: Île-de-Bréhat - Tréguier
Friday 13th July: Île-de-Bréhat - Tréguier
21NM 5hrs
We had to wait for the tide to turn in our favour, so it was a late start leaving Ile-de-Drama for Tréguier. Again, some wind was forecast but none received; we motored most of the afternoon in clear skies, but arriving at the mouth of the river the wind was beginning to fill in and funnel from the North. El helmed us the last 5 or so miles in as I pretended to look busy holding the Jib sheets.
Our destination was an anchorage mentioned in the pilot book, under the Chateau at marker buoy 10. Having looked at the picture many times we were both pretty excited. It didn't disappoint - a beautiful spot, being so close to the bank, with plenty of water under the keel, we slept well. It reminded me of home and the Cleddau River.
We arrived to a full-on market / car boot sale that sprawled throughout Tréguier's medieval streets- turns out it was Bastille Day. The market provided the €8 kitchen refit, where we purchased an old spice rack and a rather french looking (seriously leaky) tap after ours was sheared off during the winter works. There was a festival going on called 'Beg Chopin' - no idea what it was about, the music echoing through the streets didn't inspire. We also happened to be there for the Football world cup final, where they’d set up the fireworks display on the outer pontoon before France and Croatia had even kicked off. We got drunk watching the French get drunk, going mad for their 4-2 win and had a front row seat for the fireworks. We were only there for a few days and the whole place has a great atmosphere, between celebrations.
Tuesday 10th July: Paimpol - Île-de-Bréhat
JULY 2018: PAIMPOL - Île-de-Bréhat
Tuesday 10th July: Paimpol - Île-de-Bréhat
5NM 1.5hrs
It was an early rise to catch the lock out of Paimpol. I made a right mess of exiting the berth, it reminded me off that three point turn scene from Austin Powers. El would eventually save the day with the boat pole, we were too late. The lock lights turned red and were half closed as we approached - then the lights went back to green and the gates reopened - thank you Lock keeper! Although I imagine him in his office: "merde! putain anglais".
Although the wind was forecast N / NE, our first anchorage on the south didn't work out. Either the forecast was incorrect or it was bending completely around the island and putting us onto the South Cardinal at Port du Guerzido. Plus at high tide we'd have been in 18m of water and didn’t have enough chain for even 3:1 scope… so we decided to move around to Port-de-la-Corderie.
Everything changed after that decision. We lost cooling water first; seeking refuge on a ferry mooring, only to be honked and shouted at by an irate Ferry Captain - "merde! putain anglais" - all while the intake hose is off the seacock and I’m trying to rod it with a screw driver. Imminent peril averted we carried on and anchored in quite close quarters in the entrance to Port-de-la-Corderie.
The Goldilocks Zone – the proximity of the hazards wasn’t the reason we would move the next morning, it was the endless spinning in the tidal eddy. Reluctantly we picked up a visitor mooring after the occupant had left and at low water we had 0.8m under the keel. We were coming off springs to neaps – this meant that if we stayed a second night we’d be firmly on the bottom. On the third day the moment the occupier left we moved to the mooring slightly further out . Like one of those clowns that jumps your car parking space. There was peace for a while.
That evening we were watching the fishing boat ‘Roscoff’ that was moored in the entrance to the harbour. As the tide turned a very nice Ketch fisher was in danger of being struck by the fishing boat. The owners weren’t on board, so after some deliberation and in attempt to help, I rowed over, standing in the dingy, I removed his fenders from the pushpit and placed them as best I could around the boat. It didn’t help, the eventual crunch happened anyway. The next morning when we arose the boat was a spectacle of fenders. We genuinely discussed where they'd keep so many. Then there was the Frenchman on a tiny sailboat boat, so close he could shout 'mayday!' as he dropped anchor. The anchor had no effect and he disappeared off with the tide into the distance. I carried out a similar small scale 'mayday relay' and rowed over to the ketch to explain; there was not a chance SANITY's 15hp and 4 knots speed was rescuing anyone from the standing wave of tide in the channel. French Ketch man eventually retrieved him before jumping on our mooring as we left. Iles-de-Drama – get on it, it’s not to be missed! Oh, the island itself is pretty too…
Sunday 8th July: Saint-Quay-Portrieux - Paimpol
JULY 2018: saint-quay-portrieux - PAIMPOL
Sunday 8th July: Saint-Quay-Portrieux - Paimpol
15NM 4.5hrs
The forecast was a light force 1-3; we were not so fortunate and motored all the way to Paimpol.
With the added confidence of a flood tide Anse de Paimpol and the approach was straight forward. The lock was open on approach but there was carnage as we neared, a large wooden cutter at 45 degrees was blockading the lock, seemingly undeterred other skippers continued into the ever increasing chaos. We did a 180 to avoid exacerbating the situation and tied up to the waiting quay, only to be summoned in by a frantically waving lock keeper.
Paimpol marina is in the heart of town which means you’re close to the bustling touristy restaurants and shops, but it also meant there wasn’t much of a breeze… we arrived in the scorching heat and were suffering- so a short walk around the corner to our first lido; a beach swimming pool that appears when the tide goes out.
Thursday 5th July: Sables-d'or-les-pins - Saint-Quay-Portrieux
JULY 2018: Sables-d'or-les-pins - saint-quay-portrieux
Thursday 5th July: Sables-d'or-Les-pins - Saint-Quay-Portrieux
20NM 6hrs
Yep, 3.3 knots average. We started off with a little breeze, that gradually decayed throughout the day. The average speed through the water would be 1.0 - 1.5 knots and the rest was the very helpful tidal stream. We were both at the helm for periods but eventually gave in to the tiller pilot. I love the pilot, but it's noisy and has quite aggressive actuator movements at slower speeds and you can feel the stern move laterally in reaction - Newtons third law and all that. I'm sure the autopilot could paddle us there if it didn't break the tiller first (essentially it behaves like a petulant child in lighter airs). But it was a beautiful day and where else would you rather be.
Before we’d even tied to the pontoon Saint-Quay marina staff were super helpful, friendly and welcoming - and this attitude continued throughout Portrieux. Plus, you get given a welcome pack on arrival with vouchers and leaflets, that results in free oysters.. what’s not to love!
Tuesday 3rd July: Fort la Latte - Sables-d'or-les-pins
JULY 2018: FORT LA LATTe - Sables-d'or-les-pins
Tuesday 3rd July: Fort la Latte - Sables-d'or-les-pins
8.9NM 2hrs
It was a brisk sail to Sables-d'or-les-pins, rounding Cap Fréhel as the wind increased and shifted, reefing the main under a moody sky. We had chosen this destination for no other reason than a suitable anchorage for the wind direction. We arrived late afternoon and anchored in 5 meters of water, we slept so well that night we stayed for another. From the beach the town looks like nothing, but what a surprise.
“Resort of the biggest stars of the time, Sables-d’Or-les-Pins retained the stamp of that bygone era that was the golden age of the resort”
It has that 1920's atmosphere, classic architecture, boulevard and a great beach (if you ignore the giant modern casino) - highly recommend it for a short stop over. Though Navionics and I still refer to it as Port Barrier.
Monday 2nd July: Saint-Cast - Fort la Latte
JULY 2018: saint-cast - FORT LA LATTE
Monday 2nd July: Saint-Cast - Fort la Latte
3.2NM 1.5hrs
We'd spent a relaxing weekend in Saint Cast, getting a few jobs done on the boat. It's nice having a few days rest after work but we were pretty excited to leave for Fort la Latte. After an extensive passage plan, including watch schedules and provisioning we set off for the crossing, a grand total of 3.2 nautical miles - sails were hoisted - we were onto a winner.
The anchorage suggested by our pilot book 'Channel Islands, Cherbourg Peninsula, North Brittany by Peter Carnegie' is stated as 0.5NM south of the fort. After some extensive googling a few images showed boats anchored in the bay directly below the fort so we headed for that. It is worth it and forms a spectacular backdrop.
Being partial to candid tripadvisor reviews I feel compelled to include this one, this is my kind of traveller:
“Not for the unfit - The fort is quite a walk from the carpark and includes a very steep gravel surfaced hill to descend. Did not go in, just took some external photos from half way down.”
Thanks Jamy - succinct and to the point, I probably wouldn't have got out of the car. Back to the fort, it has been in a few films and is beautifully kept, if you came here for the history - Wikipedia is probably a more reliable source.
The intention was to anchor for two nights, during the second afternoon the wind shifted south, south east and was putting us onto a lee shore (rocks), so we headed around the corner to Sables-d'or-les-pins - strangely named 'Port Barrier' on Navionics.
Monday 21st May: Île de Ebihens - Saint-Cast
MAY 2018: Île de Ebihens - saint-cast
Monday 21st May: Île de Ebihens - Saint-Cast
5NM 1.5hrs
It would have been nice to stay at Ile de Ebihens for a couple of nights, but it was time to depart for Saint-Cast. SANITY was booked in the marina and we had a flight from Dinard to catch. And I'd nearly run out of beer.
The winds were light and <10 knots from the north, so we sailed gently over to Saint-Cast in a thick haze. We arrived to a modern, man-made all tide marina. The walk into town is along a stone walkway with a cliff one side; it feels very Mediterranean and it's a nice place to enjoy the view. Some books made a point of negatively commenting on the location of the marina because of this walk, but maybe they weren’t on holiday and had somewhere better to be...
As the marina is open to the south, there is some movement within. We did our best to leave her secure and free from chafe with a spider-web of ropes (I hope they don’t have to move the boat!).
Sunday 20th May: Port Vauban, St-Malo - Île de Ebihens
“On the east side, part-open to the north, is a crescent-shaped, sandy bay peopled by French sailing families revelling in the perfect beach holiday. ”
MAY 2018: SainT-MALo - Île de Ebihens
Sunday 20th May: Port Vauban, St-Malo - Île de Ebihens
11NM 3.5hrs
Since leaving Jersey we'd spent every night in our comfortable bunk. It had been an easy time, no waking up in the night to check bearings, wind speed, direction or state of tide, walking off the pontoon for drinks or dinner, house batteries at 100%. We were turning into marina junkies! For us, sailing is best when there’s an anchorage at the end of it. When we're at anchor going nowhere, with not much to do, that’s happiness.
We left Saint-Malo in the sunshine for a short hop around the coast to L'archipel des Ébihens. The wind was forecast north, north west and the anchorage on the south east looked perfect.
It felt relatively early in the season, it was Sunday, we thought it would be quiet - apparently not. It's a sunny Whit Sunday on the boat-loving Brittany coast - which from the cockpit could easily be mistaken for the holy day of anchoring. In response to this and determined to spend the night on the hook, we anchored a little further out. The depth didn't appear to change and the holding was good. We didn’t feel the need to move when the day-trippers had left, a decision which would eventually turn in our favour as everyone returned the following morning!
When arriving to L'archipel des Ébihens, it was a coastline and an island. However (as the chart shows) when the huge 11m tide goes out, it become a vast, flat beach where people and their picnics can walk across to enjoy the “island”. The bay in front was a mass of sailing dinghies, yachts, wind surfers, paddle boarders, jet skis, day fishers, Gin palaces and a classic wooden cutter all enjoying the weather and water. In the anchorage even more ribs and motorboats of all sizes, full of people would pile onto the beach for sunbathing and BBQ’s. It really makes you envy the Bretagne lifestyle!
Tuesday 15th May: Port De Herel, Granville - Port Vauban, St Malo
MAY 2018: GRANVILLE - SainT MALO
Tuesday 15th May: Port De Herel, Granville - Port Vauban, St Malo
30NM 5hrs
The forecast was for 16 gusting 20 knots from the NE. We discussed whether we should depart in the morning at length, as this was the strongest forecast we'd attempted. We made the decision that if it was awful past Granville’s breakwater, we'd return. And so, we set off in the morning with two reefs in the main and jib on a beat to windward, seas were less than a metre and we were moving along at a fair turn of speed. Half a mile behind us another boat was on the same course, so that was reassuring- we weren’t completely mad.
Approximately halfway through the passage, wind strength increased and the seas became short and steep as the stream turned against the wind. SANITY was rolling and pitching but comfortable, never slamming or slowed by the waves. We'd take water over the deck and sprayhood and were suitably wet by the end- but the helm was balanced and she was not over-pressed (we might have been).
“Sparkman & Stephens pretty SHE 31 is an enthusiast’s boat with excellent handling, particularly on a hard beat...”
The yacht astern eventually took us as we took the main approach (slightly less sharp, pointy, rocky things in the way) to Saint-Malo, but for the twenty or so miles previous she didn't catch us. Interested to know the wind speed that day, we later approached the four Gentlemen in what we would find out was a Hallberg-Rassy 36. They claimed they regularly saw gusts of 30 knots across the deck, I'm not so convinced but they did admit they were trying to catch us the whole way across. We were regularly in the 8-9 knots over the ground with a maximum of 10. A proud moment for us and an enjoyable sail.
As for Saint-Malo, it is beautiful and touristy.
Saturday 12th May: St Elizabeth Marina, Jersey - Port De Herel, Granville
MAY 2018: JERSEY - GRANVILLE
Saturday 12th May: St Elizabeth Marina, Jersey - Port De Herel, Granville
34NM 10hrs
Winter is a distant memory; we’ve had the Jersey boat show outside our wash boards, quickly followed by Jersey's Liberation Day, all bathed in beautiful sunshine. We were aware that the Channel Islands were occupied during the second world war (they left so much concrete behind, you can’t miss it!) and their Liberation Day was a day of traditional celebrations.
We accomplished quite a lot since arriving, finishing a long list of jobs and recommissioned SANITY after some quite extensive works over the winter.
We'd both researched much about Iles Chausey and dreamed of anchoring amongst the amazing pools, rocks and reefs. There was one deciding factor to scupper our best laid plans - spring tides and north / north westerly winds. With this in mind and at El's discretion we headed to Granville on the west coast of Normandy. The forecast was for Force 2 gusting 3 from the North which seemed perfect to dust off the cobwebs and try to remember how to sail… but what we got was nothing- not a ripple and 10hrs of motoring. Of course, the one bonus to all this is the shakedown of our newly replaced shaft seal (shaft, shaft seal, stern tube, cutlass bearing, anode), which is testament to Roger at D.K Collins Marine. Thank you Roger!
The approach to Granville was straight forward, we'd run a passage plan to get there for high water and arrived on time. In reality I think ‘Navionics’ is responsible for this, with regular updates to our predicted speed with the ever accumulating average. It seems to be working really well.
For some reason, Granville didn't sound appealing- admittedly, I was reluctant we were choosing it as a destination. However, I must apologise! It's a really pretty town with just the right combination of tourism and reality. I was wrong, and people should read the books and not listen to me!
2017
SARK 5AM
DERRIBLE BAY SARK
LA GRÈVE DE DE LA VILLE SARK
SHELL BEACH HERM
BELVOIR BAY HERM
HAVELET BAY GUERNSEY
ST PETER PORT GUERNSEY
CHERBOURG
NEEDLES 5AM
Tuesday 15th August: Derrible Bay, Sark - St Helier, Jersey
AUGUST 2017: SARK - jersey
Tuesday 15th August: Derrible Bay, Sark - St Helier, Jersey
25.5NM 5.5hrs
The weather had been perfect for the whole of our stay on Sark and we didn't want to leave. Our plan was to overwinter in Jersey and after all the fun time was running out. The wind and tide was in our favour so at 5am on the 15th we left Derrible Bay. We'd based the passage time for an average speed of 3 knots. This was conservative I admit, but its easier to slow down than it is to speed up.
Its been our intention to stay for the winter, we've met some great people, Gil and his wife Lisa aboard NIKI a Sparkman & Stephens 30 made by Aquafiber Ltd. Gil's energy was contagious - Meeting them would be the final straw to us removing the R.A.F.Y.C (Royal Air force Yacht Club) decal from the transom, it was getting embarassing, "Oh hi, are you in the air force?".......Fine if you are I'm sure.
My Parents visited for a week in their camper van which was a blast, it's always good when Dad's around for technical questions. They were also kind enough to take a lot of things back with them, one being the companion way steps. There's a lot more space without them!
Friday 11th August: Derrible Bay, Sark - Grève de la Ville, Sark
AUGUST 2017: SARK
Friday 11th August: Derrible Bay, Sark - Grève de la Ville, Sark
1.7NM 0.5hrs
We didn't want to leave Derrible Bay. And additionally I'm not sure why this short hop is included here. We were able to receive 3G signal in the bay which was great for the weather forecasts. The previous days forecast indicated a change in the wind direction and strength for Friday night, Saturday morning: 25 - 30 knots from the South West, time to move on.
It was a short motor though the Goulet Passage, and past Creux Harbour to the 'Grève'.
At Grève de la Ville there are visitor moorings available; marked yellow. There is no formal charge although a donation box is available. We didn't have any cash, although a quick google search revealed you can donate online via paypal, link below:
We were ashore for most of the day, had a pleasant night on the mooring and returned to Derrible Bay the following afternoon. Sark is an official Dark Sky reserve which means it has little or no artificial light at night. On the 12 - 13th August 2017 the Perseid meteor shower was forecast to be at its peak. The Sky cleared that night and we enjoyed the spectacular show under blankets in the cockpit.
Wednesday 9th August: Belvoir Bay, Herm - Derrible Bay, Sark
AUGUST 2017: Herm - SARK
Wednesday 9th August: Belvoir Bay, Herm - Derrible Bay, Sark
8.8NM 2hrs
At Belvoir Bay the wind had backed north, putting us on a lee shore, it was time to move on. We had a broad reach with the tide (and rain) towards Sark. I'm sure this is the first time we'd sailed with both wind and tide in our favour. Derrible Bay is beautiful, with great holding and protection from South West to North East. We stayed for a few days making the most of the weather and the relatively short walk into the village.
“Derrible has a much steeper access onto Sark across some large boulders, but is a lovely quiet anchorage with an interesting beach and rock caves, including the remarkable Creux Derrible – a huge collapsed sea cave with the roof open to the sky.”
Monday 7th August 2017 - Guernsey - Herm
AUGUST 2017: GUERNSEY - herm
Monday 7th August: Guernsey - Herm
5.1NM 1hr
Leaving St Peter Port from our anchor at Hamlet Bay, it was a short motor over to the small island of Herm. Safely through percée Passage (there's a euphamism in there somewhere) and the island of Jethou to east coast; it looks scarier on the charts! We anchored off the charming Belvoir Bay, that is the perfect place for sunbathing, swimming and being so thankful to be in such peaceful surroundings.
Herm itself is mostly beach- there is a centre with a hotel, pub and 2 gift shops, and an easy walk along the coastal path that connect them all. To the north is the 3/4 mile long Shell Beach, where there is good, flat sand for drying out if you like that sort of thing.
Friday 16th June 2017 - Cherbourg - Guernsey
JUNE 2017: CHERBOURG - GUERNSEY
Friday 16th June: Cherbourg - Guernsey
50NM 12hrs
With the crew still present, I say crew, I mean team (the more experienced, better looking team) - we were setting off on the second instalment of our trip, Cherbourg to Guernsey.
This was a memorable passage, it included our first sail with SANITY and a few 'lessons learned'. I don't like corporate management speak and detest this type of buzz word; lessons learned, show stopper, going forward. But, in this case ‘lessons learned’ does avoid using the word mistake.
The night before we had roughed out the passage plan. The plan had only one time window - be at the top of the Alderney race at slack water. We had read that if you keep close to the coast we would pick up an eddy running west of Cherbourg. Well, we didn’t find it, keep close? Give me a rough idea, is it 5 miles close or 50 meters. I digress, we arrived an hour or so late at the race, no big issue, or harm done.
“Aim to arrive at Cap de la Hague at high water, and try not to get swept down the Race.”
The mistake was cutting the corner at Cap de La Hague, being pushed due south at 9 knots over the ground when we wanted to be heading south west. Attempting to escape the grasp of the race and cut across was slow progress. The outcome, the finally, saw us carrying full sail in the dark through the little Russel against the tide toward St Peter Port - and enjoying every minute.
Tuesday 13th June 2017 - Yarmouth - Cherbourg
JUNE 2017: YARMOUTH - CHERBOURG
Tuesday 13th June: English Channel crossing, Yarmouth - Cherbourg.
78NM 15hrs
The forecasted small high pressure over the English Channel had materialised with blue skies and a rising sun albeit with no wind - we were in for a long motorsail - or is it just motor if you don’t put the sails up?
During the previous month in work I had found time to research and plan a rough outline of the passage. The more I read, the less daunting it became. With the total distance, approximate speed and the tidal set and drift it meant that the course to steer would drop out at approximately 180 degrees. Due south it was, I like easy. Using the solid state compass and autopilot to maintain the heading it took some conviction not to adjust the course as we observed the ever accumulating cross track error, only to see it slowly creep back as the tide turned.
“Allow the stream to set you off track while you sail on the same heading. Not only does this mean that you will sail less distance through the water, but you will also be able to admire the S-shaped track on the chart that you describe over the ground”
